In most modern work these are frequently omitted entirely or appear in reduced form only. This means that a cornice may be little more than a length of battening fixed to the carcass top. A great deal of reproduction furniture is still being made, however, and we give the usual construction. In cheaper classes of work a cornice is frequently made as part of the carcass, but this is not really satis-factory. A cabinet top made in this way. A frieze is fixed along the front, and to conceal the end grain at its ends, small miter pieces are fitted as shown. The cornice and frieze moldings are mitred and glued round. The weakness is that the grain of the molding runs across the ends and, in the event of the latter shrinking, a split may be caused. It is satisfactory for narrow carcass only.
The loose cornice is a much better method. It is from which it will be seen that the sides are lap-dovetailed to the back and at the front. Glue blocks and corner brackets are added at the inner corners as shown. The frieze cabinet is mired round beneath and projects inwards so that it reaches well over the top of the main cabinet. At the top the cornice molding is fixed, the plan being to allow it to stand up slightly so that a dust board can be fixed down flush. When fixing it a distance piece can be used to ensure the frieze being the same width all round as in the diagram.
Moldings are frequently in the form of a facing with a softwood backing, but sometimes it is an advantage to build up a wide in sections. A cheaper alternative is the pitched cornice at C. It is mitred round and fixed with glue and fine pins. Specially prepared glue blocks are rubbed in all round to give additional strength and often have decorative veneers applied.