Cabinet Doors

This contrast with its surroundings will well repay the maker, and will serve as a useful and effective addition to a small drawing-room. Almost any sound wood will suit, and the quantity will, of course, depend upon the size of the door. For a door the outside casing the extreme width of the over-door. The back, being the most important workman possess neither of these appliances, the edges may be left plain and square. The wood employed, say red deal, should be thick, clean, and straight-grained. The best method of making the back is that indicated which consists in joining two triangles with the grain running as represented in the cut. The object of this is that in the portion in which the scrolls are cut the grain runs longitudinally. Otherwise part, comes first will give the reader an idea of its shape. The outline should be a combination of free curves, and if the sketch be enlarged in due proportion the result will he found satisfactory. The back may be made perfectly plain, or it may be improved by having a double or treble simple bead run all round upon the face of the edges. This is done with a scratch-router, or with an American riding tool ; but should the
the edges would consist of grain on end, which is unsuitable. When made in the way directed, the curves are more easily cut, the weaker portion is less liable to split, and when the shelves and brackets are attached the whole will be perfectly rigid and free from danger of warping. The joining of these triangles requires accurate work, but if the joint is carefully trued up, the edges glued and dowelled together, and a temporary stay tacked across the back, the shaping may be proceeded with without danger. Clean up the surface well, and finish with fine glass-paper and a rub of wood-shavings ; this will prepare the way for latter, the heads in either case being slightly sunk and covered with putty after the first coat of paint has been given. The over-door is now complete, as far as construction is concerned ; but an even coat of white enamel, which should be the next step.

This shows a side elevation of the over-door, the portion shaded representing the door casing upon which it rests. The shelves arc of fin. stuff, and in shape should be something like that suggested of course, varying in depth and length the top shelf the middle shelf Shin. by Sin., and the lowest shelf. Treat the edges of the shelves in the same way as those of the back also indicates the shape of the brackets shows their respective positions. The lower bracket although directions for putting together the various parts have been given, this should not be done in practice until the painting has been finished. In the case of enamel colors, it is difficult to impart an even surface to subjects which involve corners and intricacies of any kind. Owing to the quick-drying properties of these paints, they do not permit of the repeated applications of the brush which are necessary, and which are easily accomplished with ordinary paint. I therefore strongly recommend that the work be painted in its various parts before finally putting all together by this means all surfaces will be smooth and even, and that enameled effect which is so charming may be insured. Each coat except, perhaps, the final one—should be rubbed down with the finest glass-paper, or, far better, with the finest ground pumice-stone and water, applied with a soft pad of rag. After rubbing must be male to suit the projection of the door-casing upon \Odell it rests. All five brackets are of “tin. stuff, or stuff tin. in the rough when cleaned up might, perhaps, be better. Furnish these also with a bead to match the shelves, &c. Secure the shelves and brackets to each other and to the back either by battens or by screws.

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